What is a Super Tuscan?
The term was apparently coined in the 1980’s and has been attributed to several people, including wine critic Robert Parker. It is kind of a catch-all term for wines that evolved from the frustration of winemakers in Tuscany; they were growing to resent the rules that governed and restricted their practices.
In Tuscany, which is home to Chianti Classico, the restrictions on wine making were numerous. Chianti Classico is predominately made from Sangiovese, but it could not be made entirely from this varietal. It was mandated that it had to include at least some portion of white, indigenous grape varietals in order to be labeled Chianti Classico DOCG (Donominazione di Origine Controllata e Guaranteed Origin).
Eventually several winemakers began to rebel and create blends made with varietals that were not native to Italy, such as Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. In 1974 Marchesi Antinori released the very first Super Tuscan to the marketplace, it was the 1971 vintage of the infamous Tignanello. Super Tuscans were labeled as table wines (Vino da Tavola) until 1992 when they were recognized and given the designation of IGT (Indication Geografica Tipica).
The term “Super Tuscan” is really rather a broad descriptor when you think about the wines that fall into this category. It includes wines that are a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon; wines that are a blend of any of the standard Bordeaux varietals; and even wines that are 100% Syrah or 100% Merlot. The one thing that all these wines have in common, even though the blend can change from wine-to-wine, is that they can use the designation, Toscana IGT.
Today, many Super Tuscans fetch upwards of one hundred dollars and they benefit from at least several years in the cellar. The 2017 Il Bruciato from Marchesi Antinori however, is drinking very well right now and retails in British Columbia for $35.99.
The 2017 Il Bruciato is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, which were all grown on the Guado al Tasso estate in Bolgheri, on the west coast of Tuscany. To add another layer of complexity to the term “Super Tuscan” this wine is not labeled under the Toscana IGT. Instead it is labeled under the Bolgheri, DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata), a designation that was established in 1994.
I did not decant this wine, but my notes were written after the bottle had been open for two hours. The nose holds soft aromas of lavender, black liquorice, blackberry and cherry. This wine is full bodied, with medium+ acidity and soft, medium tannins. The juicy palate boasts blackberry, bramble, cherry and blackcurrant with a medium finish.
Available for $35.99 at Marquis Wine Cellars, Everything Wine and BC Liquor Stores.
References
Puckette, M. (May 26, 2014). Unofficial Star of Italy: Super Tuscan Wine. Retrieved from: https://winefolly.com/tips/super-tuscan-wines/
Mowery, L. (May 1, 2019). What’s a Super Tuscan and is the Term Still Relevant? Retrieved from: https://www.winemag.com/2019/05/01/what-is-super-tuscan-is-term-still-relevant/