What wine releases do you wait for each year?
Each fall I keep an eye-out for the release of the Syrah and Portfolio from Laughing Stock Vineyards – ensuring that I acquire some to cellar.
The founders of Laughing Stock Vineyards, David and Cynthia Enns, vicariously fulfilled many wine-lover’s dreams when they left the financial industry in 2003 to open a winery on the Naramata Bench. Their colleagues from the financial world warned them that they better succeed or they would become a laughing stock.
Prior to opening their winery, David was already a garagiste winemaker in the truest sense of the word, making wines from his very own garage with premium grapes from Washington. David augmented his hands-on experience with classes at UC Davis, as well as apprenticing under several Okanagan winemakers.
With David as winemaker and Cynthia as vineyard manager, their hard work and dedication soon paid-off, and the winery and its reputation steadily grew with each vintage.
At the end of 2017, BC wine lovers were surprised to learn that Laughing Stock Vineyards had been sold to Arterra Wines. Arterra is the largest wine company in Canada, and was originally known as Vincor International until 2006 when it was purchased by an international company called Constellation Brands.
The sale of Laughing Stock was largely the result of two factors. The winery’s production had increased from 5,000 to 10,000 cases in the five years prior to the sale, and David and Cynthia recognized that the winery was literally bursting at the seams. At the same time the couple acknowledged that they needed more balance in their own lives. Selling the winery to Arterra seemed like the ideal injection of resources for the winery and the perfect way to achieve the work-life-balance they sought.
Although original press releases reported that David and Cynthia were meant to stay on to manage the winery, I am told that they are no longer involved in winery operations. Stefanie Dylla is currently the assistant winemaker at Laughing Stock. She has worked at the winery for the past four years, learning David’s winemaking style, and carrying-on his techniques with the help of the senior winemaking team at Arterra.
I am happy to report that David and Cynthia did not step away from the BC wine scene completely, as they have embarked on a new wine adventure of late.
In 2012 they discovered an abandoned pear orchard in Naramata, on 1 Mill Road, which they would eventually make their home. The property was ultimately planted with Pinot Noir and the very first vintage from 1 Mill Road is set to be released this year. Given David and Cynthia’s track record, I cannot wait to try their new wines!
In the meantime, here are tasting notes on a couple of the latest releases from Laughing Stock Vineyards.
2017 Laughing Stock Portfolio $49.99
This vintage is a blend of 48% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, 4% Malbec, and 2% Petit Verdot.
The fermentation took place in stainless steel and oak tanks, and the wine was aged for 20 months in French oak barrels (48% new and 52% second fill).
The fruit was sourced from 3 sites on the Naramata Bench and from the Perfect Hedge Vineyard in Osoyoos.
After five hours in the decanter this wine smelled like walking through blackberry bushes in a forest on an early, crisp, fall day. This fragrance was accompanied by aromas of blackcurrant, sage, thyme and dark chocolate.
On the palate I found this particular vintage to be slightly lighter and more elegant in style than previous vintages. The body was medium+, the acidity is medium+ and the tannins are medium.
There were flavours of crunchy blackberries, blackcurrant, savory thyme and salty black licorice, culminating in a long finish.
2017 Laughing Stock Syrah $36.99
This Syrah was co-fermented with 4% Viognier.
A portion of this wine was fermented in French oak puncheons, while the remaining wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks. This wine was aged for 18 months in French oak (42% new).
The fruit was sourced from the Perfect Hedge Vineyard in Osoyoos and blended with fruit from Sun Rock Vineyard in Oliver.
At 14.9% alcohol this is a big Syrah to keep you warm this winter.
After three hours in the decanter I smell peppered steak, dried herbs, mint, and crunchy blackberry with hints of black cherry.
This is a full-bodied Syrah with medium+ acidity and medium tannins.
On the palate there is black pepper, dried herbs, mint, blackberries and black plums with a long finish. This is a savoury Syrah with salinity on the mid palate and fruit rounding out the palate towards the finish.
References
Gaffney, G. (November 28, 2017). Naramata Boutique Winery Sold to Big Player in the Business. Retrieved from https://globalnews.ca/news/3886125/naramata-boutique-winery-sold-to-big-player-in-the-business/
Oleksyn, D. (December 1, 2017). Laughing Stock Vineyards Joins List of Okanagan Wineries Changing Hands. Retrieved from https://calgaryherald.com/life/food/laughing-stock-vineyards-joins-list-of-okanagan-wineries-changing-hands