Catena Zapata Malbec Tasting

I recently had the pleasure of sitting down with the Canadian Export Manager for Catena Zapata, Marina Castillo, for a virtual tasting of three incredible Malbec.

Bodega Catena Zapata is a family run winery, now with its forth generation at the helm.

Nicola Catena started this family enterprise when he sailed to Argentina from Italy in 1898, planting his first Malbec vines in 1902. Eventually Nicola’s eldest son, Domingo, took over the family business. Domingo believed that Malbec could produce outstanding wines. He was known as the “master blender” always searching-out quality grapes with which to make better wines. Under his leadership, Domingo established Bodega Catena Zapata as one of the largest vineyard holders in Mendoza.

In the 1970’s it was Domingo’s turn to pass the torch to his son, Nicolàs, who had a PhD in Economics. In 1980, shortly after taking stewardship over the family business, Nicolàs went to work as a visiting scholar at the University of California. 

For Nicolàs, California was the first wine region to successfully challenge the prestige of French wines; this took place at the Judgement of Paris in 1976. The “Judgement” was a blind tasting where the 1973 Cabernet Sauvignon from Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars placed first amongst a selection of wines from Bordeaux and California. Needless to say, Nicolàs was intrigued by the region and he and his wife spent time exploring their wineries.

Nicolàs left California inspired. He now had a clear vision, he wanted to make Argentinian wines that could stand on a world stage. Nicolàs sold the branch that produced table wines, keeping only the fine winemaking division of Bodega Catena Zapata. He set to work scouting out the best vineyard locations in Argentina. Nicolàs was the first to begin planting vineyards at high altitudes. Higher altitudes provide cool nights, which preserve the acidity in grapes and lengthens the ripening season. Higher elevation can also improve air flow, reducing the risk of disease. Ultraviolet light is also stronger at higher altitudes. This produces grapes with dark, thick skin, which creates a deeper colour in the wines and good tannin structure.

Nicolàs worked for five years in their Angélica Vineyard, which was planted in 1930; he wanted to see if Malbec could produce the quality wines for which he was striving. 1994 was the first vintage that he was satisfied with. When it was released to the world, it was met with accolades from Robert Parker and ranked as the number one Malbec by The Wall Street Journal.

In 1995, Nicolàs’ daughter, Laura Catena, had just begun working as a medical doctor. He called her and asked her to represent the winery at a trade show in New York. At the show she saw the general attitude of attendees towards Argentinian wine. She watched as people lined-up at the tables of French and Italian wine producers, while hardly anyone stopped at her table. She knew that if her father was going to realize his dream, he would need to change people’s perception of Argentinian wine, and she would have to help him. From that point forward, Laura divided her time between San Francisco, where she worked as an emergency room physician, and Mendoza. 

2017 Catena Alta Historic Rows Malbec $59.99

The Catena Alta Historic Rows Malbec is assembled from five of the Catena estate vineyards. The vineyards themselves are planted at higher altitudes ranging from 920 to 1450 meters above sea level. Vineyard lots were hand harvested at different times to ensure optimal acidity and moderate alcohol levels. Lots from each vineyard were vinified separately. Fermentation with wild yeasts and cold maceration lasted 28-30 days. Alcoholic and malolactic fermentation took place in barrel followed by bâtonnage. Aged for 18 months in French Oak.

This Malbec has aromas of cured meat, mocha, blackberry, black cherry, prune, sweet spice and liquorice. It is a dry wine that is medium+ in body, with medium acidity and medium, velvety tannins. The palate offers concentrated flavours of black cherry, blackberry, black plum, black pepper and sweet spice with liquorice, raisin and pomegranate on the medium+ finish.

2017 Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae Malbec $144.99

Fortuna Terrae means luck of the land in Latin. The Adrianna Vineyard was planted at 1366 meters above sea level; the higher elevation producing freshness and floral notes. When Nicolàs Catena Zapata came upon the site where the Adrianna Vineyard now grows, there was nothing there. He was advised against planting a vineyard at that elevation, as it was believed that the grapes would not ripen. Nicolàs went with his intuition and his gamble paid off.

This single vineyard Malbec was fermented in 225 liter oak barrels and 500 liter French oak roll-fermentors for 16 days. Maceration took place over 8-12 days. The wine spent 18 months in French oak and then 24 months in bottle before release.

This Malbec has a fresh and elegant nose with aromas of black pepper, green stem, violet, blackberry, black cherry, and liquorice pastels. This is a dry wine that is medium+ in body with medium+ acidity and medium+, velvety tannins. The savory palate offers black pepper, coffee, black cherry, blackberry and liquoirce with a medium+ finish.

2018 Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino $159.99

The stunning label that graces this bottle was created by artist Rick Shaefer. The label pays tribute to Malbec’s history in France and its rise in Argentina. More on the story behind this beautiful label can be found in my previous article, Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino 2015.

Malbec Argentino is made using grapes from old, prephylloxera vines planted in the Nicasia and Angélica Vineyards. This wine was made using 20% whole cluster and 80% whole berry fruit. The grapes were loaded into 225-500 liter new French oak barrels for fermentation with wild yeasts over 30 days. Cap management was carried out by hand. Malolactic fermentation took place in barrel and the wine was aged in French oak for 18 months.

This Malbec has an intoxicating nose of new leather, violet, blueberry, ripe black plum, black pepper, ripe black cherry, sweet spice and liquorice. This is a dry wine that is medium+ in body, with medium+ acidity and medium+ tannins. The palate offers flavours of ripe cherry, blackberry, black currant, licorice, savory dill, sweet spice, black pepper and raisin with a long finish.