I recently re-watched Sideways, a movie attributed with spiking the popularity of Pinot Noir while massacring Merlot. According to a study led by Steven Cuellar, professor at Sonoma State University, the positive impact of Sideways on Pinot Noir sales was greater than the negative impact of the movie on Merlot sales, which primarily affected Merlot under $10 a bottle.[1] The scene in Sideways that supposedly created the damage was quite short and consisted of Paul Giamatti’s character, Miles, stating, “No, if anyone orders Merlot, I’m leaving. I am NOT drinking any f***ing Merlot!” This outburst was rendered ironic during one of the final scenes of the movie where Miles opens his highly coveted bottle of wine: a 1961 Cheval Blanc. Ironic because Cheval Blanc is a Merlot dominant Bordeaux which also contains Cabernet Franc, another varietal disparaged by Miles during the movie. I have read that Miles’ aversion to Merlot had nothing to do with the grape at all, but was due instead to his ex-wife’s fondness for the varietal.
It is unfortunate that Merlot’s reputation may have been tarnished, as this varietal can certainly produce complex and intriguing wines. The four expressions of Merlot, from CheckMate Artisanal Winery in Oliver, are an excellent illustration of what this varietal is capable of.
The founder of CheckMate is Anthony von Mandl, proprietor of Mission Hill Winery. In an interview with Montecristo Magazine, von Mandl is quoted saying, “I have believed from the very beginning that [the Okanagan] would belong on the world stage. CheckMate is a reiteration of that.”[2] CheckMate began very quietly, almost in secret. Von Mandl acquired Domaine de Combret Estate Winery in Oliver in 2012, and it is now the physical home of CheckMate. The project generated momentum when von Mandl brought winemaker Philip McGahan on board in early 2013.
Philip McGahan is originally from Australia where he worked as a lawyer. Having been born and raised in rural Australia, he began to feel penned-in by city life. Although he had a keen interest in wine, he knew he could never afford a vineyard, so he decided to go back to school and become a winemaker. After graduating, McGahan worked in the Hunter Valley in Australia before moving to the Russian River Valley in California to work as the winemaker at Williams Selyem.
McGahan moved to BC in 2013 to take on the challenge of creating several distinct and elegant expressions of both Chardonnay and Merlot. Everything in the vineyard is done by hand, from canopy management, to leaf-pulling, to cluster-thinning. The wines are fermented, utilizing mostly indigenous yeasts, and they are unfined and unfiltered; the results are simply outstanding.
Last summer a “pop-up” tasting room called The Installation was craned onto the CheckMate property. The Installation opened on July 29th and was designed by Seattle-based architect Tom Kundig; the same architect responsible for the stunning architecture at Mission Hill and Martin’s Lane. The Installation allows visitors to taste the phenomenal wines CheckMate has produced while taking-in some amazing vistas of the vineyard and the valley. Due to the popularity of The Installation, it was “winterized” so that visitors could enjoy the wines and views all year round.
CheckMate recently announced that they are building a brand new tasting room and renovating their existing winery. Full details about the project are being kept quiet, but I am told that the project is well underway and CheckMate hopes to open the new tasting room in 2019. Guests are encouraged to visit often and watch as the project develops. Any project led by Tom Kundig is sure to be impressive!
This brings me to CheckMate’s release of their second vintage of Merlot consisting of four different expressions: Black Rook, End Game, Opening Gambit and Silent Bishop. The 2014 vintage was released in Vancouver last fall during a tasting at Tom Lee Music where each Merlot was paired with a musical piece played on a Steinway Piano and an amuse-bouche. I have nothing but praise for the second vintage from this incredible winery.
2014 End Game Merlot $85
14.6% ABV // TA 6.3 g/l // pH 3.65
The grapes for this wine were sourced from estate vineyards on both the Osoyoos East Bench and the Black Sage Bench. Merlot clusters were hand sorted and gently destemmed before a final sorting. The grapes underwent 100% wild fermentation with extended skin contact. The wine was then aged for 21 months in 100% French Oak. The wine is unfined and unfiltered. 16 barrels were produced.
The 2014 End Game Merlot has aromas of black cherry, Oyama’s lavender sausage, licorice pastels, blackberry and violet. This is a full bodied Merlot with medium+ acidity and tannins. The tannins are fine and velvety while the acidity is juicy; both are balanced by rich, concentrated flavours. The palate offers black cherries, prickly blackberries, dried herbs, black liquorice, clove, vanilla and a lingering finish. This wine is a joy to drink now and I look forward to where it is headed.
If you’re in the Okanagan, CheckMate is a must visit – appointments are recommended.
CheckMate Artisanal Winery
www.checkmatewinery.com
4799 Wild Rose Street
Oliver, BC
V0H 1T1
(250) 707-2299
Footnotes
[1] Cuellar, S. et al. (October 2008). The Sideways Effect: A Test for Changes in the Demand for Merlot and Pinot Noir Wines. Retrieved from https://www.wine-economics.org/dt_catalog/working-paper-no-25/
[2] Tobler, Jim. (September 19, 2016). CheckMate Artisanal Winery: On Board. Retrieved from http://montecristomagazine.com/magazine/autumn-2016/checkmate-artisanal-winery