Fort Berens Estate Winery

Is there a place that you would love to live, far away from your current life as you know it?

For me, that place is the countryside in the United Kingdom. The logistics of it though – leaving family and friends, finding a new job, getting a visa, the selling and buying of property, heck, even driving on the other side of the road, it all seems quite cumbersome, complicated and impossible. This is why I feel so in awe and fascinated by the three people I will introduce you to today, the first two being Heleen Pannekoek and Rolf de Bruin.

Rolf and Heleen met at the University of Groningen, in the Netherlands. They married and had two children. Both had successful careers: Heleen working at ING Bank, and Rolf working first as a financial controller with a telecom firm and then later in management consulting. Although they had successful careers, they could not see themselves continuing to work in the corporate world while raising their children. So they decided to move abroad and their shared love of wine gave them the impetus to start a winery.

In 2005 Rolf and Heleen began looking for land where they could build their winery and their search eventually brought them to the Okanagan. The cost of land in the Okanagan was prohibitive though, it was about four times the cost of land in Lillooet, British Columbia, thus Rolf and Heleen gambled on this young, but promising, wine region (read more here).

In 2009 Rolf and Heleen founded Fort Berens Estate Winery and planted 20 acres of grapes. The varietals were selected based on advice from industry veterans like the late Harry McWatters, of TIME Estate Winery, and Richard Cleave, one of the most respected grape growers in the Okanagan and previous owner of the infamous Phantom Creek Vineyards. The varietals planted at Fort Berens include Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Grüner Veltliner, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

As they waited for the newly planted vines to mature, Rolf and Heleen opened Fort Berens by purchasing several finished wines from the Okanagan, which they bottled and sold. They also purchased grapes from the Okanagan so that they could begin making their own wine, operating out of a renovated tractor barn on their new property.

Over the next several years Heleen and Rolf were joined by investors who would help finance the building of a new winery. In 2014 they would complete construction of a 9500 square foot facility with tasting room, restaurant, crush pad, wine cellar and warehouse. Today Fort Berens owns 38 acres of estate vineyards in Lillooet and have won numerous awards including being named the #3 Small Winery of the Year in 2022 by the WineAlign National Wine Awards of Canada.

In 2021, the team at Fort Berens was joined by an exciting new Winemaker and Viticulturist, Alessandro (Alex) Nel. Alex comes from Namibia, in Southern Africa. He has a degree in Viticulture and Oenology from Elsenbrug University and is a highly accomplished winemaker. I recently had the opportunity to interview Alex and I am delighted to share a bit about his journey from Namibia to Lillooet, his winemaking and his “go to” wine right now.

Year In Wine: How did you find your way into the wine industry?

Alex: Growing up in Namibia, my parents introduced me to wine from the age of 14, allowing me to taste and smell the wines they were enjoying. We visited the Stellenbosch wine region from time to time and the smells of the wineries inside were captivating. At this point, my wife and I were starting our relationship and we both showed an interest in tasting different wines at the local wine bar. After some research, I decided to study Viticulture and Oenology at Stellenbosch University and my wife decided to follow.

Year In Wine: How many years have you worked as a winemaker?

Alex: At University, your final year is in the 350 ton wine cellar, where you are given a red and white to make, so I guess this was my first year making wine in 2008. In 2009, I did a vintage in Cederberg, South Africa and in Rhone, France. In 2010, I did a vintage in Stellenbosch, South Africa, and California. In 2011, I did a vintage in New Zealand and returned to Cederberg as winemaker for a decade. I moved to Lillooet and started as Winemaker & Viticulturist in January 2021. So, I’ve been in the wine industry for 15 years.

Year In Wine: There are so many exciting wine regions in the world, how did you learn about Lillooet and what made you want to work there?

Alex: When we decided to move to a new wine region, we wanted to go somewhere new and exciting. Australia, New Zealand, USA have all made wine for a long time and we had visited them already. This led us to Canada. I was immediately drawn to Fort Berens, as the terroir seemed similar to Cederberg: isolated, rugged, outdoor life, small community and large shift in day and night temperatures. I enjoy unique winemaking regions.  

Year In Wine: What is the best or most rewarding part of your job?

Alex: Winning international accolades is always rewarding, but watching people enjoy the wine you have created is always very rewarding.

Year In Wine: What are the more challenging or difficult parts of your job?

Alex: Since moving here, it must be the challenges Mother Nature brings. Trying to figure out how to mitigate what the season brings in order to keep consistency. Extreme cold and heat, fires, rain, hail, the list goes on. This is Canadian winemaking!

Year In Wine: What inspires your winemaking?

Alex: I have a huge passion for wine and making great wine. I enjoy perfection and strive for it. Being recognized in any international wine competition is always inspirational to do better next time.

Year In Wine: Who has inspired you/influenced you in your career?

Alex: My previous employer is David Nieuwoudt [Cederberg Wines], who is also a winemaker and my mentor. He has had the greatest influence on the styles of wine I make and enjoy.

Year In Wine: Is there a wine you have made that you are particularly proud of and why?

Alex: I created a naturally fermented Sauvignon Blanc in barrel, one of the first of this style in South Africa, which had phenomenal success, Ghost Corner Wild Ferment Sauvignon [from Cederberg Wines]. I particularly enjoy natural fermentation on white wines in oak. I am adopting this style on Riesling at Fort Berens. Riesling is our signature white wine here at Fort Berens.

Year In Wine: Do you have a particular grape variety that you like to work with or a favourite blend you like to produce and why?

Alex: We do not have any here, but Sauvignon Blanc runs in my veins. It is extremely versatile in the styles it can produce and is very expressive to the area in which it grows. My favourite reds are Syrah and Cabernet Franc. Cabernet Franc is our signature red wine here at Fort Berens.

Year In Wine: What style or styles of wine are you looking to produce at Fort Berens?

Alex: On unwooded whites, I want them to be fresh, lively, and aromatic. On the wooded whites, I want richness and complexity, while retaining freshness and elegance. The reds expressive of Lillooet, rich, yet elegant and easy to enjoy.

Year In Wine: What direction would you like to see the wine program at Fort Berens take?

Alex: We are headed in the right direction to reflect the styles I want to portray. We focus mainly on single varietals, showing off what Lillooet can produce, and try to keep consistency.

Year In Wine: If money/resources were not a limitation what new initiatives would you like to undertake at the winery?

Alex: Wouldn’t every winemaker want this! I would move the crush system to an inert system (zero oxygen system), install smaller red fermenters to focus more on smaller batch fermentation, and most importantly create more space. Things get pretty cramped after a big harvest. Otherwise not much needs to change!

Year In Wine: Given the recent plantings of Grüner Veltliner and Cabernet Sauvignon at Fort Berens, are there other grape varieties that you would like to experiment with in Lillooet?

Alex: I would love to see Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc here. Syrah as well, but it may be a bit cold for it in BC.

Year In Wine: What’s your “go to” wine right now?

Alex: Greywacke Wild Sauvignon from New Zealand.

Year In Wine: I look forward to trying this Wild Sauvignon Blanc from Greywacke. What is one of your most memorable food and wine pairings?

Alex: A 12-course food and wine pairing at Rust en Vrede resteaurant in Stellenbosch after harvest.

Year In Wine: Favourite drink right now (alcoholic or non-alcoholic)?

Alex: Fort Berens Riesling Reserve or White Gold Chardonnay.

Year In Wine: I definitely concur with you on the Fort Berens White Gold Chardonnay; I recently found a stash of the 2021 vintage at the BC Liquour Store and I stocked-up! Is there any other news about Fort Berens that you would like to share?

Alex: Keep an eye out, some great wines are coming.

Year In Wine: I have no doubt about that and I look forward to your future vintages Alex! I am definitely eager to try a wild and oak fermented Riesling, but for now I will leave readers with some notes on several current releases from Fort Berens Estate Winery.

2022 Pinot Noir $34.99

This wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir from Summerland (53%) and Naramata (47%). The grapes were hand harvested at optimal ripeness, then de-stemmed and crushed prior to a cold soak for two days. The grape must was inoculated with a yeast strain from Burgundy and there were three pump-overs per day during fermentation. The wine was aged for nine months in mostly neutral French oak barrels.

A shy nose of dried cherries, strawberry and red plum. This is a dry wine, medium in body with medium acidity and medium- tannins. The fresh and delicate palate offers strawberries, dried cherries, bright raspberries and hints of sweet spice, with a medium finish.

2021 Cabernet Franc $32.99

The 2021 vintage saw temperatures of 48°C, the highest temperature ever recorded in Lillooet. After this heat dome, temperatures returned to seasonal norms but the area received more than average rainfall during the growing season. The growing season itself was long, allowing the reds more hang-time, and harvest yields were above average.

This wine is 95% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes were picked and sorted by hand prior to de-stemming and crushing. There were two days of cold soak before fermentation with pump-overs every four hours. Fermentation was followed by nine days of maceration in order to extract colour and fine tannins. The wine was aged in French oak barrels (5% new) for 15 months prior to bottling.

After three hours in the decanter there are aromas of dried blackcurrants, dried cherries, ripe strawberries, thyme, bayleaf and a hint of sweet spice. This is a dry wine, medium+ in body with high acidity and medium tannins. The palate offers salted blackcurrants, blackberries, black plums, dried cherries and thyme with a just a hint of sweet spice, and a medium+ finish.

2021 Small Lot Merlot $32.99

The Small Lot wine series was launched last year. These wines are made from 100% estate grown fruit and allow the winemaker to experiment with smaller batches of grapes.

Made from 100% estate grown Merlot, the grapes were hand harvested from the 15-year-old Dry Creek Vineyard as well as the newer Red Rock Vineyard. After sorting, crushing and de-stemming, the grapes underwent a cold soak for two days. During fermentation, pump overs were completed every four hours. After maceration, pump overs continued for three days to extract colour and fine tannins. The wine was aged in neutral oak barrels for 15 months.

Concentrated aromas of black cherry, black plum, liquorice, prune, cinnamon and clove. This is a dry wine, medium+ in body, with medium+ acidity and medium tannins. The palate offers black cherries, black plum, bitter fresh thyme, smokey prunes, liquorice and sweet spice, with a medium finish.

2021 Meritage $31.99

This wine is a blend of 64% Merlot, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Cabernet Franc. The grapes are from both estate vineyards and a vineyard in Osoyoos. Grapes were handpicked, de-stemmed and crushed prior to a cold soak for four days. The grape must was inoculated with select Bordeaux yeast strains and pump overs were carried out every four hours. Each grape variety was vinified and matured separately in oak barrel for 15 months and then blended prior to bottling.

Aromas reminiscent of Christmas cake: prunes, black cherries, dried blackcurrant, liquorice, clove, cinnamon and nutmeg. This is a dry wine, medium+ in body, with medium+ acidity and medium, slightly grippy, tannins. The palate offers prunes, dried cherries, dried blackcurrant, liquorice, nutmeg and clove, with a medium finish.

References

www.fortberens.ca

Bell, R.A. (September 2014). Fort Berens Estate Winery. Retrieved from http://www.winesofcanada.com/featured-winery-fortberens.html

Morrison, A. (February 5, 2015). Fort Berens Estate Winery Owners add two Vancouverites to Their Number. Retrieved from http://scoutmagazine.ca/2015/02/05/goods-vancouverites-join-ownership-team-at-award-winning-fort-berens-estate-winery/

Schreiner, J. (November 20, 2017). Fort Berens Releases its 2015 Vintage. Retrieved from http://johnschreiner.blogspot.ca/2017/11/fort-berens-releases-its-2015-vintage.html

Schreiner, J. (April 27, 2017). Fort Berens Releases First Dry Riesling. Retrieved from http://johnschreiner.blogspot.ca/2017/04/fort-berens-releases-first-dry-riesling.html

Schreiner, J. (November 25, 2016). Fort Berens Adds Red Gold to its Portfolio. Retrieved from http://johnschreiner.blogspot.ca/2016/11/fort-berens-adds-red-gold-to-its.html

Schreiner, J. (July 22, 2016). Fort Berens Brings Lillooet to Life. Retrieved from http://johnschreiner.blogspot.ca/2016/07/fort-berens-brings-lillooet-to-life.html

Schreiner, J. (November 6, 2015). Fort Berens Becomes a Hot Spot. Retrieved from http://johnschreiner.blogspot.ca/2015/11/fort-berens-becomes-hot-spot.html

Schreiner, J. (September 2, 2010). Lillooet’s Pioneering Wine Growers. Retrieved from https://johnschreiner.blogspot.ca/2010/09/lillooets-pioneering-wine-growers.html

Wikipedia. (Retrieved on December 13, 2017). Fort Berens. Retrieved from https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fort_Berens