Unsworth Vineyards: A Wine Destination on Vancouver Island

As a child, Marjorie Unsworth spent many summers at Shawnigan Lake and she would later bring her own children there. Marjorie’s son, Tim Turyk, carried on the tradition bringing his wife, Colleen, daughters, Sarah and Anna, and Son, Chris, to enjoy Shawnigan Lake and the beauty and culture of the surrounding area.

Tim Turyk worked for over 40 years in the BC fishing industry before selling his business. The Turyks then began looking for some agricultural land as an investment and small retirement project. While biking around Mill Bay in 2009, Tim came across a quaint vineyard with a farmhouse that was built around 1910. With support and enthusiasm from their son, Chris (now a certified Sommelier with an Associate’s Degree in Culinary Arts), Tim and Colleen purchased the property without knowing exactly where it would lead them. When the Turyks opened their winery it was named Unsworth Vineyards after Tim’s Mother who had fostered a fondness in her family for the Cowichan Valley all those years ago.

Unsworth Vineyards as it stands today, was forged by the Turyks together with the passion and vision of winemakers Daniel and Sarah Cosman from Quebec.  Daniel and Sarah had always planned to return to their home province to start their own company, but this process was expedited when land became available adjacent to Daniel’s family’s maple syrup farm in Bury, Quebec. As a result, Dan Wright came on board this time last year as the new winemaker at Unsworth. He has a Bachelor of Science in Biochemistry and a post-graduate certificate in grape and wine technology. He has worked numerous vintages in cool climate wine growing regions including the Niagara Peninsula, Ontario; Marlborough, New Zealand; and the Willamette Valley, Oregon.

Unsworth has planted grape varietals that are well suited to the cooler climate on Vancouver Island, which means early ripening grapes that are disease tolerant resulting in minimal intervention in the vineyard.  The oldest block in the vineyard is Marechal Foch, which is at least a decade old, and was planted by the vineyard’s previous owner. The Marechal Foch is used in Unsworth’s dessert wine, Ovation.

In 2011 several Blattner varietals were planted including Sauvignette, Cabernet Libre, Labelle and Amiel. Valentin Blattner is a grape geneticist from Switzerland and the Blattner varietals were developed to thrive in cool climate growing regions like Vancouver Island.

To date, the last grapes to be planted in the 10-acre estate vineyard at Unsworth are Pinot Gris and Pinot Noir, which were planted in 2013. In addition to estate grown grapes, Unsworth purchases some grapes from other growers on Vancouver Island in order to meet their production needs. Unsworth also has a TimBuckToo label that is reserved for wines produced with grapes from growers in the Okanagan.

In addition to beautiful grounds and a well-appointed tasting room, the old farmhouse at Unsworth has been restored and now serves as a spectacular restaurant. The Chef is Maartyn Hoogeveen from New Zealand who, among other achievements, spent two years as sous chef at Craggy Range Vineyards. Maartyn is quoted as saying that “the abundance of local farms and producers in the Cowichan Valley allows [him] to live [his] culinary dream.” The restaurant overlooks the vineyard and has a seasonal menu with a focus on fresh, local and sustainable food. When you visit Unsworth come for the wine but make sure you plan time to also stay for a meal; you won’t regret it.

If you are not able to make it to Vancouver Island anytime soon, Chris Turyk will be pouring a selection of Unsworth wines at Everything Wine in South Surrey on Thursday, July 20^th from 2:00 – 6:00.

In late May I was fortunate to spend what felt like the first warm, sunny day since last summer, touring and tasting at Unsworth Vineyards with Tasting Room Manager, Scott Robertson. Here are my tasting notes:

Charme De L’ile   $25

The term Charme de L’ile (Charm of the Island) has actually been trademarked and when you see it on a bottle of wine it indicates a Prossecco style wine made on Vancouver Island using the classic charmat method. The Italians developed the charmat method which requires a second fermentation in a pressurized tank. Scott tells me that Unsworth owns such a tank but shares it with several other wineries on the Island, emphasizing the community which exists amongst the wineries in the area.

Unsworth’s Charme De L’ile is made from a blend of 43% Pinot Noir, 42% Pinot Gris and 15% Sauvignette and there is extend lees contact. This wine was one of my favorites from the tasting. It has bruised apple, fresh pear and yeasty notes on the nose. On the palate I found red delicious apples and a touch of brioche with balanced acidity and pleasant bubbles.

 

2016 Pinot Gris   $24

On the nose there was pear and minerality which were both echoed on the palate with refreshing acidity. This wine was another favourite of mine, which I enjoyed on the restaurant patio alongside my delicious lunch.

 

2015 Allegro   $20

A blend of 50% Petit Milo and 50% Sauvignette. This wine was fermented in stainless steel and it had extended contact with the lees. On the nose I found canned mandarin oranges which carried through to the palate where I also found hints of apricot. This wine is fuller in body with a touch of sweetness, mouth-watering acidity and a good finish. Petit Milo is another Blattner hybrid which is grown at a nearby vineyard.

 

 

2016 Gewurztraminer   $20

A lovely dry Gewurztraminer with lychee, apricot and floral notes on the nose, citrus and spice on the palate.

2016 Sauvignette   $24

This wine was another standout for me. It was barrel fermented in French Oak.  On the nose there were light notes of buttery toast, pineapple and lemon. The palate was intriguing with layers of citrus, pineapple, green apple and hints of spice, including clove. The palate was vibrant with good acidity and a medium plus body.

 

2015 Petit Milo   $23

Green apple on the nose with lime and green apple on the palate. This wine is off-dry with high acidity making it a great match for spicy foods.

2015 Pinot Noir   $31

Dill, leather and vanilla on the nose, this light bodied Pinot has cherry, vanilla and spice on the palate with soft tannins and acidity. It is drinking well now.

 

Unsworth Vineyards
2915 Cameron Taggart Road #1
Mill Bay, BC V0R 2P2